03 Apr 2007 07:19 PM

The button-hole stitch is a unique stitch that is not only easy to learn, but it is also one that can be done quickly. Throw in the fact that you do not have to turn any edges under, and it also makes it a very practical stitch and much-loved by many quilters.

The graphics in this lesson aren't the best in the world (lighting was bad because it's late at night!), but hopefully, they will assist in demonstrating the steps.

It is important to note that the way that I do a button-hole stitch is not like anyone else's that I have seen. I am self-taught and this stitch works for me, plus, I have received so many compliments on the finished pieces that I don't want to change what is working!

Appliqué can be fun and not tedious. So, sit back, read, relax, and then try your hand at it!

Materials Needed

There are several things that are needed that makes this stitch simple, such as:

Scissors,
Fabric Pieces,
Appliqué Pattern(s),
Double-Sided Fusible Webbing,
Iron,
Background Fabric,
Needle,
Thread: Either two or three strands of embroidery floss OR one strand of size 8 perle cotton,
Marking Pen (such as a permanent pen).

Preparing to Appliqué

Using the pattern, carefully trace it onto one side of the paper on the fusible webbing.
Continue step 1 until are pattern pieces are traced, as illustrated below:
Roughly cut each pattern apart, as shown below:
If there are any large pieces, cut the center out, leaving a 1/4" of the fusible webbing, as shown below. This keeps the larger appliqué pieces from being stiff when placed into the quilt top, which could be very important when quilting.
Iron each of the fusible patterns on the wrong side of your fabrics, as shown, being cautious to follow the manufacturer's instructions for ironing.
Continue to iron each fusible pattern until all are finished, then roughly cut them out.
Now, cut each of the appliqué pieces being careful to cut on the line and to cut smoothly. Accuracy is important now; no rough cutting. Do not add 1/4" for a seam allowance because there is no turning under involved in button-hole appliqué!
Now it is time to begin the placement of your pattern pieces on the quilt top. Lay the pieces out in a way that is pleasing to your eye. Be careful to lay patterns that should go beneath others in the correct place. It is OK to overlap!
To keep the pieces in place, pin them.
Move the quilt top to the ironing board and begin pressing each piece in place. Be sure to remove the paper backing and the pins first!
Once all of the pieces have been pressed in place, lay the quilt top flat so that it can cool.

Beginning to Appliqué

Before beginning, it is important to note that the distance between your appliqué stitches and the length of the stitch will depend upon the size of the piece you are working on. The smaller the appliqué piece, the smaller the stitches should be.

Thread your needle. In this example, I am using black perle cotton. Use about 18" of thread.
Tie a small knot at the tail of the thread. Do not double the thread; this is appliqué using a single thread, with the tail loose.
From the back side, bring the needle up next to the edge of the appliquéd fusible piece.
Put the needle into the background fabric approximately 1/4" away from where you started, being careful to go down at the edge of the appliqué, as shown below. In the same smooth motion, bring the needle up inside of the appliqué approximately 1/4" away, as shown. Do not pull the needle through yet!
Before pulling the needle through, take the ends of the thread and pull them around so that they go under the needle, as shown below.
Tug on the thread so that it is pulled tautly beneath the needle, as shown.
Pull the needle through, while pulling the threads away from you. Do not pull so tightly that it puckers, but also do not leave it so loose that it gaps. If you will notice, I am now holding this so that I am appliquéing in an upward motion. I continue to turn the appliqué as I go along, always working in the same direction. It will take some practice to find the most comfortable position for you, but this is a great starting place!
Put the needle in at the edge of the appliqué again, approximately 1/4" away, and then take a bite out of the appliqué another 1/4". This is illustrated below. Again, do not pull the needle through yet!
Before pulling the needle through, bring the threads around and under the needle, as before.
Pull the needle through, again moving the threads away from you, as illustrated.
By now, you should have the manner of this stitch starting to come together. In one motion, put the needle in on the edge of the appliqué approximately 1/4" away, then take a bite out of the appliqué another 1/4", then pull the threads under the needle while pulling the needle/threads away from you.
Continue making these stitches until there is approximately 4" of thread left. Now, it is time to tie this thread off before beginning a new one. Once you have pulled the needle through, put the needle back in at about the same place it came out, but not exactly (else you will undo the previous stitch). This puts the needle on the back side of the top.
Take a tiny stitch on the back so that it does not show on the front, then, before pulling it all the way through, run the needle through a loop in the thread. This ties it off. Continue to do this three or four times to anchor the stitch. Clip the thread as close to the knotted end as possible.
You have now completed the first round and it is time to thread your needle again and begin the process all over. If you wonder where you start, you start by bringing the needle up in the same place you left off.
Do you see the orange appliqué behind the one we have been using to work from? When it is time to appliqué that piece, you will start and stop on the edge of the one we just finished. You will not cross over.

Good luck and have fun!

For more information, please contact quilting@quiltingpassion.com