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A quilt that has each
block set on the diagonal is called an "on-point"
setting. It has a tendency to intimidate quilters for one
simple reason: The triangles around the edge!
This tutorial is designed
to take the mystery out of making all of the triangles
needed for an on-point setting and also to demonstrate
that things that look too complicated to do, aren't
necessarily.
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Don't let the "look"
of this tutorial scare you! If you read through it once, and
follow the examples, you should have no problem understanding the
concept. And if you dislike doing the math, watch for the
calculator icon and use the calculators provided:
Diagonal Calculator,
Square Calculator.
The quilt diagram
pictured above illustrates a typical on-point quilt, with the blue
and white squares representing the blocks. The blue
blocks are the "Outside" blocks and the white
blocks are the "Inside" blocks. The pink
triangles are called "Edge" triangles and the purple
triangles are called "Corner" triangles. The number of
Edge triangles can vary from one quilt to another, but there are
always four Corner triangles. In this sample, there are eight
Edge triangles.
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Since math isn't everyone's
favorite subject, and since there are a lot of fractional
measurements involved in diagonal settings, it is
recommended that you keep a calculator nearby. If you
don't have a calculator, use the one provided with any
computer running Windows, by clicking Start/Programs/Accessories/Calculator. |
Getting Started
Normally, the
measurement that is important in sewing a quilt top together is
the width of the block. However, in a diagonally set quilt, the most
important measurement is the diagonal measurement, measuring
from one corner to its opposite corner.
There are three
different methods of measuring the diagonal measurement:
Simply
measure from one corner to the opposite corner. This will
more than likely be an odd measurement (fractional), so
round it up to the nearest 1/8". Refer to the
Fractional Measurements Table below for conversions. For
example, the fractions 4/16", 2/8", and 1/4"
are all equal in measurement. Their decimal equivalent is
.25.
Fractional Measurements
Conversion Table
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| 1/16" |
2/16" |
3/16" |
4/16" |
5/16" |
6/16" |
7/16" |
8/16" |
9/16" |
10/16" |
11/16" |
12/16" |
13/16" |
14/16" |
15/16" |
16/16" |
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1/8" |
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2/8" |
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3/8" |
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4/8" |
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5/8" |
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6/8" |
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7/8" |
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8/8" |
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1/4" |
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2/4" |
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3/4" |
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4/4" |
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1/2" |
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2/2" |
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1" |
| .0625 |
.125 |
.1875 |
.25 |
.3125 |
.375 |
.4375 |
.5 |
.5625 |
.625 |
.6875 |
.75 |
.8125 |
.875 |
.9375 |
1.000 |
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If you know the finished
size of the block, simply multiply it by 1.414 and round
up to the nearest 1/8". For example, if the finished
size of a block is 12", then multiply that by 1.414
to get 16.968, which would round up to 17". So, a 12"
block has a diagonal measurement of 17". A 9"
finished block would be 12 3/4" diagonally (9 x 1.414
= 12.726, which rounds to 12.75 which is 12 3/4").
Use the calculator!
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Worksheet: My quilt's
finished block size is _________ with a diagonal
measurement of _______.
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Lay out the quilt
blocks in the way that you want them sewn, leaving the
edges and corners empty (which we'll fill as we continue).
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Play with
the design until you have a layout that is
pleasing to you. Once you begin sewing these
together, it's difficult to rearrange!
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Making the Edge
Triangles
One fact that we
need to keep utmost in mind is that the bias edges of triangles
should NEVER go along the outside edge of quilt. Never.
Referring to the
quilt diagram above, the pink triangles are the Edge
triangles. These triangles are made by cutting a large square
diagonally, twice, in the form of an "x". Once cut in
this manner, it makes four triangles from the one square, with
the base (the longest side) of the triangle being on the outer
edge (straight of grain) and NOT on the bias.
Follow these simple
steps to make the Edge triangles for your quilt:
Count
the number of Edge triangles needed for your quilt. Divide
this number by 4 (because for each square we cut, it
yields 4 triangles). For example, the above quilt has 8
Edge triangles, so 8 divided by 4 is equal to 2.
Therefore, we need to cut 2 large squares, the size to be
determined in the next step. If you have a number of Edge
triangles that won't divide by 4 equally, then round up.
For example, if your quilt has only 6 Edge triangles, 6
divided by 4 is equal to 1.5, rounded up to 2 (because
you can't cut 1.5 squares!).
Worksheet:
My quilt needs _______ Edge triangles, which would mean I
need _____ large squares.
To determine the size
of the large squares to cut, you can either use the
calculator provided, or do the math yourself using the
diagonal measurement that you arrived at in the Getting
Started section above (and wrote down in step 4). Using this measurement, add a minimum
of 1 1/2". For
example, if the diagonal measurement was 17", then
add 1 1/2" to 17" to get the large square size
of 18 1/2". You would cut your large squares to this
measurement.
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Cut the
squares a little larger than the minimum of 1 1/2".
I usually cut my squares at least 2"
larger, rather than the 1 1/2". Why? It's
much easier to trim the excess fabric than it is
to try to glue fabric on the quilt top if you run
short!
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Worksheet:
I need to cut _____ large squares that are ______ big.
Once the correct
number of large squares are cut to the large size, cut
them diagonally, twice. This makes 4 triangles for each
large square.
Place
these Edge triangles in the quilt layout, making sure
that the base (long side) of the triangle is on the outer
edge of the quilt.
Making the Corner
Triangles
Every on-point quilt
requires four corner triangles, shown in purple in the
quilt illustrated at the top.
One fact should be
repeated: We need to keep utmost in mind that the bias edges
of triangles should NEVER go along the outside edge of quilt.
Never.
Follow these simple
steps to make the Corner triangles for your quilt:
You are going
to need 2 large
squares to make the Corner triangles. Each of these squares is going to be cut once
on the diagonal, to yield 2 triangles per square.
To determine
the size of the 2 large squares, do these two things: First,
multiply the finished block size by 0.707, then round the
result up to the nearest 1/8" and second, add 1"
to the new measurement. For example, if the finished
block is 12", then first multiply that by 0.707.
This equals 8.484. Round this up to 8.5. Second, using
this new measurement of 8.5, add 1". This now equals
9.5". Another example, if the finished block is 9",
then multiply by 0.707, then add 1". So, 9 x 0.707 =
6.363. Round this up to 6.5". Add 1" to get a
measurement of 7.5". Calculator for this coming soon!
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Cut the
squares a little larger than the calculated
measurement of the large square. I usually cut my
squares at least 1" larger. Why? It's
much easier to trim the excess fabric than it is
to try to glue fabric on the quilt top if you run
short!
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Worksheet:
My finished block size is ______, multiplied by 0.707
equals ______, rounded up to _____. Add 1" and my
large block size to cut is ______.
Worksheet:
I need to cut 2 large squares ________ big.
Once the 2 large
squares are cut to the large size, cut
them diagonally, once. This makes 2 triangles for each
large square, for a total of 4 Corner triangles. Notice
that the base (long side) of the triangles cut once from
a square are on the BIAS, not on the straight of grain.
Just the opposite of the Edge triangles.
Place
these Corner triangles in the quilt layout, making sure
that the base (long side) of the triangle is on the inside
edge of the quilt this time.
Options!
There are several
options available that can totally change the look of your quilt.
Here are a few:
Use a
different block as the Inside block.
Use a plain
block (one piece of fabric) for the Inside blocks.
Use a
different color for the Inside blocks.
Use a
different color for the Edge and Corner triangles.
Use a
directional fabric for the Inside, Edge, and/or Corner.
Be sure to keep the direction going in the same way! This
could require extra cutting.
Take one last
look at your arrangement. If you aren't happy with it,
this is the time to change it!
Assembly!
Assembly
begins in the top left corner and moves downward to the bottom
right.
Follow
these simple instructions for assembling the on-point quilt top:
Leaving the
top left corner triangle alone, begin by picking up the
first two items in the second diagonal row, which are an
Edge triangle and a block. Do not sew the Corner
triangles on until step 7. Refer to the image below that
illustrates the first two items (an Edge triangle and a
block), each marked with a large 'X'.

Place
the Edge triangle right sides together with the block (so
that the Edge triangle is on bottom), matching the right
angle corner to the corner of the block. Sew
these two pieces together, using a scant (just short) 1/4"
seam.
Place
them back in the diagonal row to check for accuracy and
make sure that they are in the correct position.
Pick
up the next block or Edge and following the same method, sew
it to the first unit sewn in step 2. In the sample quilt
illustrated above, an Edge would be sewn to a block, then
finished with the other Edge. There are only 3 items to
sew together in the second diagonal row in the sample
quilt.
Sew
each of the diagonal rows together using the same method.
Refer to the diagram below for a suggested order of
sewing, beginning with 1.

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It is
important to continue laying sewn pieces back
onto the layout and checking for accuracy and
correct position. Skipping this step to save time
can cost you later. Voice of experience here!
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Press
the seam allowances in each diagonal row toward the
Inside blocks or toward the Edge triangles, then pin
the rows together, using the pressed seams to "snug"
together and match intersecting points. Sew
the diagonal rows together using a scant 1/4" seam.
Row 1-2-3 is sewn to 4-5-6-7-8, then this unit is sewn to
9-10-11-12-13, etc.
Once all the
diagonal rows are sewn together, it's time to add the
Corner triangles. First, it's important to find the
center of the base (long side) of the Corner triangles.
To do this, simply fold the Corner
triangle in half, along the base. Finger press
the fold near the base edge, or use a pin to mark the
center.
Locate
the center of the side of the block that you are going to
sew the Corner triangle to. Mark the
center with a pin or finger press.
Place
the Corner triangle right sides together with the block,
being careful to match the centers of each.
Pin
the two pieces together, first in the middle, then at
each end. Sew with the Corner triangle
on the bottom.
Press
the quilt top flat, then trim
the sides even, being very careful to leave a
precise 1/4" from the intersections of where the
triangles and blocks are sewn.
Add
borders, if desired.
Layer
with batting and the backing, quilt,
then bind.
This
concludes the tutorial. I hope that it was easy to follow and
understand and that you now have a better understanding of
setting quilt tops on-point. Should you have any questions, or
comments, please e-mail me.
Above is a sample of a quilt top that I finished with an on-point setting.
Good luck, happy quilting, and have fun!


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