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For cutting instructions specific to some of the blocks in "All About Blocks", refer to the Cutting Instructions. Table of Contents
Piecing a quilt can not only be very relaxing, but it can also be rewarding and provide many years of love, warmth, and comfort that can be passed on to future generations. These instructions are not intended to be all-inclusive, however it is hoped that enough information is given to provide a helpful start. Good luck and have fun!
Here is a list of basic supplies that are needed:
While the majority of quilting resources highly recommend washing, drying, and pressing all fabrics before using, I have found that there are only certain types of fabrics that need to be pre-washed, such as batiks, hand-dyes, and so forth. However, with that said, if you are not sure or are not comfortable in determining this, then it would be wise to pre-wash, dry, and press before using. For more information, read "Pre-Washing or Not?".
There are basically two (2) methods of cutting: 1) Using scissors (the old-fashioned way!), and 2) Rotary cutting (the most popular method today). Rotary cutting is a quick cutting technique that helps speed the process of piecing, and also helps make the process easier and faster. Since rotary cutting sometimes yields extra pieces, it is wise to save these and use them in future projects. Regardless of how you cut, the important thing is to be careful and accurate. It is amazing, and disappointing, at how much being off even a 1/16th of an inch can affect the outcome of your blocks. What if you have a row of 8 blocks that are each 1/16" off? Once you sew them, even if you sew with an accurate 1/4" seam, the end result would be that this specific row of blocks would be 1/2" short (1/16" x 8 blocks). Doesn't sound like much, but have you ever tried to "force" a row and/or block to fit? Not a pretty picture at my house! One of the advantages of rotary cutting is in its accuracy. With acrylic rulers and cutting mats, cutting precisely is much faster and simpler. All measurements for the All About Blocks pieces include the 1/4" wide seam allowance, so do not add seam allowances to the measurements given in the instructions for each block (unless otherwise noted; for example, sometimes appliqué pieces will not include the seam allowance). In order to help obtain an accurate 1/4" seam, it is wise to sew with a "scant" 1/4" seam, with "scant" meaning to sew just a couple of threads smaller than the regular 1/4". Try practicing a scant 1/4" seam until you are comfortable with it. Above all, remember that consistency in sewing seams is by far the most important thing. There are numerous ways to make half-square triangles (HST), quarter-square triangles (QST), and half-quarter square triangles (HQST). The method that you choose depends on what you are comfortable with. If you prefer to cut each piece out separately, then refer to the instructions given in specific Cutting Instructions. If you prefer to use a faster method, then refer to the HST Tutorial provided on this site. For a detailed example of how specific cutting directions work for some of the blocks in "All About Blocks", first read Cutting Instructions, then read through the Spools Block. This is the only block that will go into such detail and it is with this example that you should be able to grasp how these instructions are given.
There are times when it is not practical, nor is it easy, to sew odd-shaped pieces together the traditional way. It is at these times that it is very practical to use templates. Using a very fine-line, permanent marker, carefully trace the templates onto sturdy, clear plastic. When cutting the shape out, carefully cut on the inside of the drawn line, as close to it as humanly possible. The more precise the line and cutting, the more accurate the templates. The template patterns included in "All About Blocks" do not include the 1/4" seam allowance, therefore it is of utmost importance to add the seam allowance before cutting out the templates. To use a template, place it right side up on the right side of the fabric, then lightly trace around the template with a pencil (or other marking tool). Next, cut the piece out, making sure to add the 1/4" seam allowance. It is not necessary to cut these out precisely because you have the drawn line to use as a guide for sewing. Just make sure that you do not cut the piece with a seam allowance that is less than 1/8". Eye-balling the seam allowance can be acquired through practice. If tracing several patterns from the template before cutting the pieces out, be sure to leave a bit more than 1/2" between templates before cutting out; this assures that you have room to add the seam allowances when cutting. Sometimes it is necessary to reverse a template; such as, if you wish for a template to face the opposite direction than it is. In order to do this, simply turn the template upside down so that the right side of the template is on the bottom side and the wrong side of the template is facing up. Then place it, with the wrong side up, on the right side of the fabric. It is important to label templates as you make them. This makes it easier to keep track of them and bundle them together so that they don't all get mixed up. I also use a small hole-puncher to punch a hole through the templates, then I hook them together with a safety pin and store them in a see-through baggie.
In my opinion, pressing is one of the most important aspects of the quilting process and the least aspect of quilting to be discussed. It is important to press after each seam is sewn. The difference between pressing and ironing is this: Pressing involves an up and down motion, while ironing uses a side to side motion. Do not iron! Going from side to side can distort, and even stretch, fabric. Be just as careful when pressing as you are when sewing and quilting and your quilt will look fabulous!
Whether machine piecing or hand piecing, there are some fundamental rules to make the finished block look and behave, its best. To join two pieces, place them right sides together, then align the raw edges, then pin the pieces together to secure them. The pins are usually removed just before reaching the needle of the sewing machine, however it is possible to carefully, and slowly, sew over pins. This is a personal preference. The seam allowance is the distance between the sewing machine needle and the outside edge of the presser foot. This should be a scant 1/4". When sewing, the outside edge of the presser foot should align with the raw edges of the fabric being sewn. As mentioned above, it would be wise to practice on scraps of fabric to "perfect" your scant 1/4". When machine-piecing, sew the seam from edge to edge. There is no need to backstitch, however if hand-piecing, begin and end the seam 1/4" from each edge. It is necessary to backstitch if hand-piecing, to lock the seam in place. Seam allowances are usually pressed to one side; usually to the darker fabric. There are exceptions to this however, one being if there are many seams coming together at one point (such as in the LeMoyne Star). In this case, consider pressing the seams open. Chain-Piecing is a technique that is commonly used to speed up the process of machine piecing. Chain-piecing is feeding pairs of fabric pieces through the sewing machine, one right after another, without stopping to cut the threads, creating a chain of sewn pieces. The pieces are cut apart once the "chain" is finished. When first learning to sew pieces together, it is a good idea to measure each sewn unit to make sure that it is the correct size. If it is, continue. If it isn't, then this is the best time to correct it by taking it apart and re-sewing it. Practice truly does make perfect. Machine piecing is faster, but one of the best advantages of hand-piecing is that it is very portable and can be done practically anywhere.
When it is time to assemble the block, try to find the most logical way in which to sew the pieces together. This is usually in a row-method. You first sew the pieces together in rows, as shown below.
Then sew the rows together to form the final block. This is illustrated below:
It is important to remember to press and measure as you sew in order to achieve the best results. Sometimes blocks can not be easily sewn together using the row-method. In these cases, try to find ways to join the pieces together in manageable units that can later be sewn together.
What exactly is appliqué? Simply put for our purposes, appliqué is the process of attaching one piece of fabric to another piece. The word “appliqué” is a French term, first used as a noun, that came into being around 1801 that meant, “a cutout decoration fastened to a larger piece of material”. Then, around 1881, appliqué began being used as a verb, meaning, “to apply (as a decoration or ornament) to a larger surface; overlay”. What is so enticing about appliqué? What makes appliqué so popular? Why does appliqué sometimes seem to have a complicated reputation? Why is appliqué a scary concept to some quilters? There isn’t a simple answer to any of these questions, yet despite all of the negative things one might hear about appliqué, and despite the anxiety sometimes associated with appliqué, it can be one of the most relaxing, enjoyable, and addicting techniques that quilters can very easily acquire. Just as with other things that are learned, the more you appliqué, the better you get! So, please do not fall into the trap of giving it a whirl, not liking your results and deciding it isn't for you. Try it several times and you'll find that you get better!
Did you notice in the
previous paragraph that I said, “can acquire”?
Yes, that’s right! Appliquéing
is a learned technique. It is a skill that can be taught!
No one is born with a needle and thread in one hand and
patch-pieces and a plain block in the other (except in our dreams, of
course). Like most other
things learned, it takes a bit of practice to become proficient.
So, if you’ve tried it before and weren’t happy with the
results, try it again! Or
if you’ve never tried it, here’s your chance!
To me, one of the
greatest advantages of appliqué is its portability.
It is very convenient to cut out all of the pieces needed,
bundle them into a closable plastic bag, add a few sewing items (like
scissors, needles, thread, and so forth), and then stuff it into your
purse, or a briefcase, or even drop it onto the front seat of your
car. Or, lest I forget,
lay it beside your easy chair at home and appliqué while watching
your favorite television show. I
have even seen women doing needlework at baseball games, in break
rooms, and also at doctor’s offices; everywhere! Another advantage of appliqué is that it makes difficult blocks easier to master. Until paper-piecing came into its current popularity, difficult patterns could only be achieved by appliqué. There are just some things that cannot be pieced, no matter how good you are.
There are so many
different methods of appliqué available today that it can be quite
confusing! And, many
times, it is the confusion that is scary; not the actual process of
appliqué itself. There are so many, in fact, that there is not enough space in
this article to cover them all adequately.
So,
hopefully this short article will help to unconfuse those of you that
are intimidated with appliqué and, at the same time, perhaps
encourage those of you that already appliqué to venture out of your
niche and try a new technique. Here is a brief introduction to a few of the most popular methods of appliqué today. Remember: When appliquéing, there is an order to adding the pieces, usually working from the back to the front!
For a free lesson in learning my technique for button-hole appliqué, refer to my appliqué article.
One
of my favorite quilts, made in 2001, was an appliquéd heart quilt,
partially shown above in the sample, done with alternating blocks of purple and green.
I used a fusible appliqué technique, and then used three
strands of white embroidery floss for the button-hole stitch.
One
of the most frequently asked questions about this method is what the
difference is between a button-hole stitch and a blanket stitch. The answer lies with the way it is sewn; the position of the
needle is different when it is brought up to the front surface of the
fabric from the back for each stitch. Freezer Paper Appliqué. This method of appliqué is one of the easiest methods, also. In fact, it is the first method I learned when I began quilting in 1993.
Freezer
paper can be purchased in the paper products section of most
supermarkets. It is easy
to draw on (the dull side) and cut out, and the waxy (shiny) side
irons easily to fabric. It
also peels off easily and can be used over and over several times.
It is important to reverse the pattern when using this
technique; else wise your pattern will be backwards on the block.
A glue stick comes in handy to “baste” the edges of the
fabric over the freezer paper “templates”, which makes turning the
edges under for the seam allowance a snap.
One really neat aspect to using this method is that you don’t
have to be precise when cutting out your fabric pieces because the
freezer paper itself is the template and the seam allowance tucks
under when appliquéd. For a free lesson in learning my technique for freezer paper appliqué, refer to my freezer paper article. Fusible Appliqué. The use of double-sided fusible webbing makes this type of appliqué a popular one, too. Merely draw or trace pattern pieces onto one side of the paper of fusible webbing, then roughly cut out the piece and peel the paper off the other side, then iron it onto the wrong side of your fabric. You can then remove the other side of the fusible webbing, trim it accurately, and iron it to your block. Once applied to the block, you can use either a satin stitch or button-hole stitch (or one of your own choosing) to stitch it down.
Needle
Turn Appliqué.
This method involves cutting out pattern pieces, then pinning
them to the block. Once
in the right position, you use your needle to turn under the seam
allowance as you go. Several
handy tips: 1) Before
pinning to the block, finger press the seam allowance over the
template, spray starch it, then iron it (make sure you have template
material that can withstand heat) to set the seams (or use
water-soluble glue), 2) Once the pattern piece is pinned to the block,
only turn under a small portion as you go; usually about the width of
a finger, 3) Never begin on a point or in a valley, 4) Instead of
using a ¼” seam allowance, use only 1/8”. Satin-Stitch Machine Appliqué. Want to appliqué quickly? Then this is the method for you! Cut out the pattern pieces, don’t worry about a seam allowance, pin the pieces to your block, then use the satin stitch feature on your sewing machine to appliqué the pieces to the block. By using the satin stitch (or even the button-hole stitch) to cover the raw edges, you avoid dealing with seam allowances. If needed, use a lightweight paperbacked fusible web to fuse the appliqué piece to the background fabric instead of using pins. This also helps to fuse the piece to the fabric, making it even more secure to the block and less likely to begin to fray over time. If you would like more information on appliqué techniques, there are a wide variety of resources in the Quilting Passion How-To's.
Paper-piecing is a method used to make blocks that result in extremely sharp and accurate points. It is sometimes called "foundation piecing", too. Either paper or fabric (usually muslin) are used as the foundation to sew on. This technique is quite popular and there are many books on the subject. Also, there are a wide variety of resources in the Quilting Passion How-To's.
Before marking a quilt, it is necessary to press the quilt top flat. Make sure that there are no seams that are puckered or bulging. There are many tools available on the market today for marking a quilt, including pencils, water-soluble markers, chalk, and more. It is important when marking the quilt to use marking tools lightly. Be sure to read the instructions from the manufacturer before using any marking tool, and test for removability. Stencils, templates, rulers, and patterns can be used to mark a quilt. After marking a few, you should be able to find what is the most comfortable for you.
The backing of a quilt is sometimes not given the credit it is due. The backing is an important piece of the quilt and can also be used to showcase the actual quilting. When choosing the backing, be sure to use the same quality of fabric as was used on the quilt top. If the quilt is larger than 36", then you will need to join pieces together in order for it to be large enough. There are many ways of doing this, and this is a great opportunity for you to let your creativity flow. The back of the quilt can be just as gorgeous as the front! In fact, I have seen quilts that were pieced on both sides and it was difficult to tell the back from the front. The backing should measure 4" larger than the quilt top, on all four sides. Why? Because the actual process of quilting causes the backing to "shrink" as it is sewn. So, if you don't allow extra room, you will probably come up short on the back! If there are seams in the backing, they should each be pressed open.
Most batting is marketed in standard sizes:
Choosing batting may not be as simple as one would think. There are many factors to consider, such as:
If you are using a lot of quilting, then consider cotton. If you are quilting heavily, also consider cotton. If you are hand-quilting, again consider cotton. If you want a quilt that is "puffy", then use a high-loft polyester. If you do not want to use a lot of quilting, then consider a low- to medium-loft batting. If you want a warmer quilt, then consider wool. If you do not want to baste before quilting, then the fusible batting is the way to go! When batting is first unfolded from the package, it has creases. Before using batting, open the package 24 hours in advance, spread out the batting, and let it "breathe". This effectively removes the creases. Enough information about batting to confuse you? If you are unsure of the type of batting to choose, ask your local quilt shop to help you in making your selection.
The layering process is the same whether you are quilting by hand or by machine. It is also very important. Being careful pays in the end. Carelessness can cost you in the appearance of the quilt. Using a smooth, flat surface that is a little larger than the quilt, lay the backing with the right side of the fabric facing down against the surface. Using your hands, smooth out the fabric so that there are no wrinkles (I press my backing before quilting to remove all wrinkles!). It is best to begin in the middle and work your way outward. To keep the backing in place, use masking tape on the sides to adhere it to the surface (make sure you aren't taping on a surface that shouldn't be taped!). Stretch the fabric so that it is taut, but not distorted. Place the batting on top of the backing, centered. Smooth it in place, making sure that there are no wrinkles. You should have approximately 4" of extra backing/batting to spare around the quilt top, as explained above. At this point, make sure of two things: 1) The right side of the backing is facing down toward the surface of the table, and 2) The right side of the quilt top is facing upwards so that you can see it. The quilt is now ready to be basted!
Basting is my least favorite part of the whole quilting process! But, it is a necessary step. So, with that said, here is some useful information about basting. It is extremely important to keep the layered quilt from shifting while quilting, therefore, some type of basting is needed. A quilt that is poorly basted is sometimes puckered and/or wrinkled. Basting varies depending on whether you are hand-quilting or machine quilting. If hand-quilting, use a darning needle threaded with approximately 20" of thread, and begin in the middle. Work a single row towards the outside edge, vertically. Next, baste a row horizontally, again beginning in the middle. Once you have this grid, baste in each section until the entire top is basted. There is no need to tie a knot in the thread and the basting stitches do not have to be small. In fact, use large stitches and keep basting rows approximately 4" apart. If machine quilting, instead of using needle and thread to baste, use safety pins. Make sure the pins are of good quality so that they do not rust on the quilt. Begin the pin basting in the center and work outwards in a circular pattern. Again, keep basting approximately 4" apart. When possible, do not pin in areas that you know you will be quilting in. If quilting in the ditch (down the seam lines), then be careful not to pin on the seams. There are several options available for basting that are worth mentioning. Two readily come to mind: Quilting Tacks and Fusible Batting. Quilting tacks are available by purchasing a quilting gun. This is fast and easy! Fusible batting is also a good option. You simply layer everything together, smooth it out, then press it. This adheres the batting to the top and the back and makes quilting a snap. Another option for fusing batting is to purchase a fusible spray. This is messy and can sure cause the carpet to be sticky (experience is the best teacher), so I'd recommend doing it outside or on top of a drop cloth.
There are basically two options for quilting: By hand or by machine. Regardless of which method you choose, there is so much to know about each that it cannot be covered in this introduction to quilting. Hand-quilting is slower than machine quilting, unless you opt to use a method called "tying" the quilt. This is usually accomplished using perle cotton or some type of yarn. This is used as a very fast way to quilt. A good example of this is in a wallhanging that I made for Valentine's Day. If you look carefully at the finished quilt at the bottom of the project page, you can see the yarns dangling. Many small wallhangings and baby quilts are tied in this manner, and also utility quilts. Machine quilting is generally thought of as being the quickest. You can quilt by using straight lines or free-motion or a combination of both. For best results, use an even-feed foot on the sewing machine. This helps reduce puckers by keeping the top and the backing moving along at the same rate. For free-motion quilting, a darning foot is needed.
There are typically two ways to finish a quilt: A no-bind method (often called "birthing a quilt" and a binding method. Each of these are described below.
The no-bind method is commonly called "birthing" a quilt. This is a quick method used to finish smaller quilts. In this method, the quilt is "finished" before it is quilted. When layering the quilt, instead of placing the top right side up, you place the top right side down, so that it is facing the batting. You also place the backing so that it is facing the batting. You then sew 1/4" around the perimeter of the quilt, beginning at the bottom. Be sure to leave an opening large enough for your hand to fit. It is important to note that you cannot use a fusible batting for this method! Once the outer edges are sewn, diagonally clip the corners off to reduce bulk. Next, using your hand, turn the quilt inside-out through the opening that was left at the bottom. This is sometimes easier when you have someone help you. Once turned, or birthed, then smooth it out, making sure that the corners are sharp. Whip-stitch the opening shut, then baste before quilting. Finishing a quilt using this method is similar to making a pillow. It is a great way to add lace or prairie points to a quilt, also. You would add these before you sew the 1/4" around the perimeter of the quilt and you would also make sure that your lace or prairie points were facing the interior of the quilt!
Binding for a quilt can be made by cutting on the bias or by cutting on the straight of grain. I usually cut on the straight of grain, unless I'm binding a quilt that has edges that are not straight. For example, the curved (scalloped) edges of a Wedding Ring quilt would need binding that is cut on the bias. Straight of grain binding is usually cut 2.5" wide by the length of the fabric. After the strips are cut, sew them together, end on end, using a 1/4" seam allowance. Press the seams open. Once you have enough to go around the quilt, then press the binding in half, length-wise, wrong sides on the inside, with the right sides showing on top. Bias binding is also usually cut 2.5" wide. In order to cut on the bias, cut a large square of fabric (44" is typical). Remove the selvages, then make the first cut at a 45° angle. This is where an acrylic ruler with markings comes in very handy! This makes approximately 20 yards of binding. Use a smaller square for less binding. Once cut, join the binding together, end on end. Once you have enough to go around the quilt, then press the binding in half, length-wise, right sides on the outside. Once the binding is made, it then needs to be attached to the top side of the quilt by stitching through all three layers. Follow this process:
If you do not want to make binding, then use the backing as the binding. How? Simply make the backing larger than the top, and once it is basted and quilted, then trim the batting only (not the backing!) so that it is even with the top. Trim the backing so that it is approximately 2.5" larger than the top, then fold it over once, to the edge of the top, but not beyond the top. Press in place. Then, fold this edge over the top and stitch in place.
I cannot stress enough how important I believe labeling to be. This is a historical record of who made the quilt and when and can include any other information that you deem important. The label should include the following information:
The label can be made using permanent markers, stamps, or even your printer (using chemicals to make the ink jet ink permanent). Fabric used can be either white or non-bleached muslin. Labels are usually attached to the back in the bottom left corner, using a blind stitch. Free labels are available on this site and customized labels are available for purchase.
Two other options for labeling a quilt are: 1) To simply embroider the information onto the backing of the quilt or onto muslin, and 2) To simply use a permanent marker to write the information in a discreet location (these are my least favorite "labeling" methods).
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